Bathing, bartering the Thai way odyss

By Rebecca Miller

Sà-wàt-dee kâ (a greeting, like welcome) was one of the first words I heard after landing on the buzzing Thai island of Koh Samui.

The island looks as good in real life as on postcards … just a pity about the smell of sewage. It lingers with the humidity, but that’s soon forgotten as you splash in the waters of Chaweng Beach.

Thai entrepreneurs sell their wares on the sandy shores and in the bustling shopping strip. But beware of making eye contact with the seller if you’re not buying anything, otherwise they’ll hover like flies. Fans of Ray Bans or Havaianas will be in shopper’s heaven (just don’t expect the real deal), and for a tailored suit you need only step outside the hotel to a seemingly endless selection.

Bartering is key. My partner and I bought two pairs of Havaianas for $10 each (about $30 back home).

And there’s plenty of accommodation. Centara Grand Beach Resort on Chaweng Beach is in the heart of the action. We lashed out and got a room there with a plunge pool. After a quick dip, I hightailed it to the resort’s day spa. I was lucky enough to wander in on a Sunday – rates are cheaper on weekends – and the hot-stone massage was amazing.

The island is great for relaxation and food. Of course, there’s plenty of native fare, including spicy curries and stir-fries, but there are also Aussie restaurants serving burgers, flying the flag and playing John Farnham in the background.

I was stoked to find Zico’s, a Brazilian restaurant with buffet and spit-roasted meats and seafood. The passionfruit caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail, made from cachaça (sugarcane-infused alcohol), hit the spot. And despite the heat outside, the samba dancers kicked the night up a gear with their brightly coloured outfits and enthusiasm.

We found the best way to learn about Thai food was through a private cooking class. Prices vary, but Dara Samui Beach Resort is good value, with the hotel’s chef on hand to show us how to cook our three-course lunch. The only difficult part was choosing a menu. We tried to avoid curries, which proved advantageous as we wiped sweat from our brows, but it was infused into our meals anyway. And we left with aprons, recipes, a certificate, a DVD of our afternoon’s efforts, and full bellies.

After walking around before and after meals we began to melt and decided to hire a scooter. I was dubious about leaving my passport as collateral, but all was okay.

Scooters are everywhere and cost about $10 a day. We got a flat tyre, but $6 saw us back on our way. We rode up to Lamai Beach, as the traffic is nothing like Bangkok and there’s a great view of the island.

Stopping at Beach Republic resort is a must for a lunch of snow fish (mild-flavoured Thai fish) and chips followed by caramelised apple tart.

And free wi-fi at most hotels and restaurants is a blessing if you’re searching for another adventure. The best thing about Koh Samui is the bargain shopping and beaches.