Cunning cuisine

Finding a gap in the market and choosing to fill it is a logical reason to open a business. It’s exactly what the owners of The Rusty Fox, the new deli, food store and cafe in Kensington, have done.

Chef Rebecca Creighton, Kim Scott and Jennifer Galea all live in Kensington and were tired of having to leave the suburb to pick up their supplies of good cheese, quality charcuterie and artisan breads. So they decided to open their own shop and stock it with what they love.

The trio opened The Rusty Fox after spending months renovating a former laptop shop.

They’ve created a modern space dressed with recycled wood panelling and illustrative artwork reminiscent of fairytale characters by artist Kaffeine. The shop has a long countertop with stools to sit at that allow you to watch the chefs while they cook dishes from a succinct but smart menu that covers comforting combinations of flavours as well as smart salads.

The herbed omelette is a great example of finding and filling gaps in the area’s cuisine.

Kim Scott tells me no one else nearby is doing a really good omelette so they put one on. It’s gently cooked, with chopped chives and folded over subtly smoked salmon, asparagus and cos lettuce hearts ($16). It’s balanced in flavours and beautifully presented.

An open sandwich of chicken terrine ($12.50) is a delight with its thick slab of house-made terrine on top of good sourdough bread from Port Melbourne bakery Noisette.

It’s finished with a finely sliced apple and radish salad and a chutney that adds bite and sweetness.

At the front of the room is a fridge filled with dishes to take home, such as autumn vegies with saffron cous cous, slow-braised lamb, and produce such as Istra meats from Daylesford and Holy Goat and Meredith cheeses.

Shelves filled with house-made jams and relishes as well as lentils and grains, dress the room and there’s a charming courtyard out the back.

Five Senses coffee rounds out the experience and the baking stands out, too. (Chef Creighton is a highly regarded pastry chef.) So save room for a gooey chocolate brownie.

The Rusty Fox has certainly filled a gap and it is doing it with quality and experience.