Plenty of fine chow at Chew Chew

Moonee Ponds railway station is flanked by food outlets. Margaret Street has a long strip of shops, cafes and eateries, but on the Norwood Crescent side, Chew Chew is quietly on its own, making its own mark.

The space of Chew Chew is lovely, with the room divided in two — one side is light, white and airy, the other side dark with raw woods, a dramatic antler chandelier and oversized gilt mirrors.

They are contrasting environments but carry a thread of vintage, statement decor and comfort. Breakfasts range from muesli and toast to egg and bacon panini and corn fritters with poached eggs, avocado and tomato salad. Lunchtime is cosy with meals that are generous in portions and not too heavy on the pocket.

A beetroot salad ($16.50) with rocket, chicken and roasted pumpkin is a jumble of chunky pieces of the ingredients, well-seasoned and given extra bite with a walnut and lemon dressing. There are pastas on the menu and a risotto. We choose fettucini with pork ragu and a ‘mirepoix of summer vegetables’ ($17).

Mirepoix is a cooking term that refers to roughly chopped vegetables. It’s very old-school to see it on a menu but the ragu itself is tasty with vegetables through it and lots of garlic and tomato. Panini are another feature. Choose from the smoked salmon, capers, rocket and aioli ($11.50) or the roast beef with caramelised onion, swiss cheese and rocket ($10.50), which proves to be another big portion with pink slices of beef in between soft, toasted bread.

Desserts are treats such as macarons and lemon tarts, not made on the premises but with just the right finish with the coffee from Mio. With service that is very friendly, a beautiful room and generous portions of freshly prepared food, it’s easy to see why Chew Chew stands out on its own.